Bagamoyo Field Trip

On the weekend we had a field trip to Bagamoyo. Being a history nut, I was obviously gung-ho, and Joel being quite the opposite of a history nut was obviously NOT gung-ho. So, off I went with six other girls to visit historic Bagamoyo.

First interesting fact: Bagamoyo in Kiswahili translates to "Crush Down Your Heart". The area was given this name by slaves, as it was cenral area in the slave trade. Bagamoyo is a port city and served as the mainland terminus for the lucrative and brutal slave trade. At its peak, an estimated 50,000 slaves per year were taken from the African interior to Bagamoyo for transshipment to the slave markets and spice and clove plantations of Zanzibar. It is an odd feeling having read Book of Negroes two years ago. I remember how vivid the book was able to describe the location and conditions of what the men and women in the slave trade were subjected to (though that takes place in West Africa, and we are far East). It was almost surreal to be standing on grounds where these atrocities took place.

The posts where they would chain slaves up before they were autctioned off and shipped off to Zanzibar.

Today, this area is a historic site, and home to a fish market. That was one of the most amazing, smelliest, noisiest and fly-infested five minutes I have ever experienced. The fisherman (who set out bright and early) come in with buckets and nets full of fish, and local people crowd around in a giant circle. The fisherman will hold up one fish at a time, and yell out prices. When someone bids, he will toss the fish to his "shucker" (for lack of a better word), who will gut and clean the fish in record speed, and pass it on to the winner, at which time money is exchanged.We have been cooked fish a few times for dinner, generally when we are eating traditional tanzania food. I'll admit, I put on a brave face as I ate my entire fish (the poor guy was staring back at me from his plate, his mouth open in what looked like a silent protest) as I dug through his ribs, gills, left over innards to access the meat. I am now deciding to take a mini haitus from eating fish, atleast until the smell of the fish market dissaptes from my mind.

Crowds waiting for the fisherman

Shucking Fish (Is that the proper term?)

Fish Auction, mid action.

We had the chance to visit a 500 year old Baobab tree. (Think LION KING, Rafiki.)When leafless, it looks like a giant upsidedown tree (see legends below..) but since we are here in the wet/"cooler" season, it was leafy and full of like. The Baobab Tree is also known as the tree of life, with good reason too. It is capable of providing shelter, food and water for the animal and human inhabitants of the African Savannah regions. The cork-like bark is fire resistant and is used for cloth and rope. The leaves are used for condiments and medicines. The fruit, called "monkey bread", is rich in vitamin C and is eaten. The tree is capable of storing hundreds of litres of water, which is tapped in dry periods. Mature trees are frequently hollow, providing living space for numerous animals and humans alike.Trees are even used as bars, barns and more. Radio-carbon dating has measured that age of some Baobab trees at over 2,000 years old. For most of the year, the tree is leafless, and looks very much like it has its roots sticking up in the air.

Baobab Tree Legends:

There are numerous legends offering explanations of how the tree came to be stuffed in the ground upside down, so it could no longer complain. Some of the myths are:

• The Bushmen believed that goings-on in the baobab so offended God that in his wrath he uprooted it and cast it back into the earth upside-down.
• It is said that if you drink its delectable sap you’ll receive protection from the crafty crocodile; but don’t pluck its flowers, for whosoever does so will be torn apart by lions!
• It is also claimed that on the day of creation, each animal was given a tree to plant and that the hyena planted the baobab upside-down and, as a result, it should never have grown. But grow it did, and today baobabs dot the Limpopo landscape.

Standing in front of the gigantic trunk.

Baobab in all it's glory. God's creation never ceases to amaze me.

Lunch was an adventure in itself. Being penny-pinching students, we decided to pack a lunch of left overs from last nights dinner, and bring it with us on our day trip. We figured we would find a nice beach or park where we could sit and eat. In Bagamoyo (as well as many places of Dar) you are not allowed to eat your own food in a public place (Hapana Pikiniki "no Picnic" as they say), as almost all of the public places are owned and run with restaurants attached. We drove around for half hour, and finally our taxi driver pulled into a fire station, and after letting us know how hospitable the people of Tz are, he hopped out of the an and walked over to the fire men, and asked if we could eat lunch on their property. Sure enough they welcomed us to have lunch under their tree, and even let us take a few photos afterwards.

I do not know how they wear these jackets in their blazing heat, and infront of a blazing fire.

Since we are on the subject of 911 related sites, this is one of the oldest police stations in Bagamoyo (ironically, or not?) right beside the former slave market.

There are many artists in Bagamoyo, and even a really good school for sculptures. Their sculptures are everywhere, such as this one popping out of the ground on the side of the road. Somewhat creepy looking. Best thing to do is offer it a kiss? 

We also visited Koale ruins of mosques and graves from the 13th - 15th century. Arab influence has been prominent here for hundreds of years, and still is today. These ruins were mosques from the 15th century, and the graves are also from that time. It was tradition to build towers ontop of the graves. The higher the tower, the more important the person buried there was. 

2 somehwat important people, one quite improtant, and then another who must have been incredibly great.

Sitting on the steps of the mosque ruin, where the designated person used to climb to shout out the call to prayer. (It is now played on microphone / loud speaker) five times per day. Listening to the sound has become part of our daily routine.

 Joel... you missed out!